Jesuit missionaries in Peru
constructed El Templo de San Pedro Apóstol church in the
mid-1500s. They erected their Catholic temple atop Huari religious grounds
called a huaca. The Huari were a pre-Inca civilization that once
inhabited the area, which today still retains its Huari/Quechua name: Quispicanchi.
The construction of this ‘temple’ served to promote Christianity, and also to
convert Quispicanchi denizens. Construction ended in 1606, but the relevance of
this temple as a symbol of conquest, however, has yet to end.
Today, San Pedro enjoys
international acclaim as the “Sistine Chapel of the Americas.” Luis de Riaño, a
counter-mannerist student of the Roman painter Angelino Medoro, decorated the
majority of the temple’s interior. The beautiful mural paintings that span the
interior walls are what earned it the “Sistine Chapel” nickname. By using
pre-Conquest construction methods, which combine cane, straw and mud (rather
than wood), the sanctuary was capped with a tall, polychrome ceiling. Some
artists note that the ceiling takes after the Mudéjar, or Moorish style
architecture. It is a living piece of art that continues to attract thousands
of visitors from around the world every year.
Located in the town of
Andahuaylillas, and seated at just over two miles in altitude, the Andean
building itself sits amid hundreds of acres of agricultural production and
attracts tourism from all over the world. It mainly functions for religious
reasons nowadays, but its revenue funds many social and economic development
programs throughout Quispicanchi. With the exception of the Peruvian priest who
runs the parish, Spanish Jesuits still largely orchestrate the missions funded
by this and other baroque-era temples.
As the Spanish set out to
conquer new lands and people in the Americas, they used their religion and the
Catholic Church’s expertise in art in order to convert many indigenous people.
After all, religious art had been very persuasive in the European dark ages.
Art acted as a visual bible, depicting many keystone biblical stories in a time
when the masses did not even possess the ability to read. Luis de Riaño, the
artist responsible for the temple’s interior decoration, was an avid Christian
who used his artistic ability to depict Bible stories and Christian principles
for the indigenous people to understand visually. Darker figures often went to
hell while white people went to heaven. The fact that the indigenous people of
Quispicanchi were illiterate, operating by oral language alone, effectively allowed
the Spanish to use religious, artistic murals in order to persuade some
inhabitants to convert. This, of course, is what the tour guides espouse when
giving their daily tours.
According to Plato’s first
tenet in his Socratic Dialogue Phaedrus, one must have a grasp of
the truth, and a detailed understanding of the soul, in order to properly
persuade others. Spanish conquerors leveraged their knowledge of the human fear
of death in order to brainwash the indigenous groups they sought to conquer and
enslave. They thereby forced many conversions out of fear rather than freedom.
By painting murals that depicted roads, for example, which lead to heaven or to
hell, the Spanish presented would-be indigenous converts with a choice: either
they would convert, or they would forever damn themselves and go to hell.
Plato’s second tenet in Phaedrus
argues that one must understand the soul, and also what is good or bad for the
soul. Possessing this comprehension allows one to know the things toward which
the soul ought to be persuaded. The Spanish were misguided in thinking that
Christianity gave them dominion over non-Christians in the New World. They were
wrong to think that Christianity endowed them with the power to enslave,
torture, and murder indigenous people. The Spanish ignorantly thought that
adopting the Catholic faith was in fact good for the indios—negatively, ‘Indians’.
They had no idea how their conquest would aversely affect development in the
region centuries later. Probably, they did not care.
After centuries have
passed, is still apparent that the indigenous peoples of the Andes—such as
those in Andahuaylillas—were not persuaded toward a thing entirely ‘good’ for
them. There is still child labor and poverty throughout Latin America, and in
Andahuaylillas, despite the omnipresence of Catholicism and its “good” works. Today,
in fact, children who experience different rites of passage (Catholic sacraments)
in El Templo de San Pedro Apóstol church are
some of the same, human-rights-deprived children that are forced to work all
night making roof tiles in Piñipampa—a neighboring
riverbed favela. In perhaps too many ways, the temple still serves its original
purpose of conquest and conversion. When looking at the whole dynamic through
Plato’s lens some five centuries later, one can still ask: Towards what are these poor souls being
oriented?
Marcus
John is a student in a Jesuit-run high school in California, operated by the California Province of the Society of Jesus.
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